Tuscany: An Imaginary Wine Tour
As the summer winds down, many of us are still thinking about
memorable extended vacations or adventurous day trips that took us away
from quotidian patterns and rituals. We have been enjoying the stories
of fortunate friends, colleagues, and customers who visited Paris,
Barcelona, the Greek Islands or Tuscany, just to name a few. Some of us
were lucky enough to get away to exotic lands and some of us vacationed
vicariously through others. Whichever scenario fits, we decided it would
be fun to go someplace in September, like Italy, even if it were just a
journey of nose, mouth, and mind, through the cities and vineyards of
the rolling hills of Tuscany.

We start in Boston and take off from Logan Airport, via
Alitalia, and land in Schiphol, Amsterdam. (Sorry, there are no direct
flights.) From there a short two hour flight puts us in Florence, the
capital city of Tuscany, and called by some, the Athens of the Middle
Ages. Here is where the Renaissance was born. Artists like Michelangelo,
Raphael, Da Vinci, and Donatello were some of the luminaries of the
period.
While in Florence we stroll through the Piazza della Signoria and gaze at the Fountain of Neptune with its satyrs on the edges and sea horses emerging from the waters. Just outside the Palazzo Vecchio we can see a replica of Michelangelo's David - purists that we are, we head up to
Accademia di Belle Arti ("Academy of Fine Arts") to see the real deal. On the way, a quick stop at one of the most visited locations in Europe, the Piazza del Duomo, to wander through museums, cathedrals and bell towers of epic proportions. After some night life adventuring and a seven course meal we rest up at the hotel of our choice and head out in the morning for San Gimignano and the first of our several winery stops.

San
Gimignano, a walled city with fifteen towers that escaped the ravages
of war and urban renewal, has become internationally known for just
that. That and a local wine made from the Vernaccia grape that produces a
dry, fresh, distinct white wine with a hint of bitter almonds on the
finish. Vernaccia di San Gimignano was also, in 1966, the very first DOC
wine in Italy and in 1993 was awarded DOCG status. After exploring
towers and the city we head out to the surrounding countryside to visit a
couple of wineries.
Just a few kilometers north northwest from the ancient walled city lies the Casa Alle Vacche
vineyard with its 20 hectares of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Canaiolo, and Vernaccia di San Gimignano. They also have three
hectares of olives to complete the agricultural picture. Here we chat
with the Ciappi family and sip some delicious light bodied Vernaccia.
West of the city we stop in at Panizzi, a younger
winery with some very stylish wines. We sip some more Vernaccia and
decide, that while different, we can't pick a favorite. We stay with
some friends just outside the walled city and dream of red wine rivers
sure to come.
From San Gimignano we head into the heart of Tuscany -
Chianti, and Chianti's heart lies in the Classico region. A gentleman
farmer's paradise if ever there was one, the Chianti wine region is
scattered with farms and vineyards dotted with cypress and olive. The
Sangiovese grape, the lifeblood from Florence to Siena, beats out a
steady flow of vinous potions. Black and tart cherries with a minerally
iron note are textbook descriptors for Sangiovese, along with some lip
smacking sourness and sturdy tannins. These wines are ideal with all
delicacies Italian.

We head north east into the Classico region and pay a quick but thoroughly satisfying visit to Isole e Olena
where we have time for a quick conversation with Paolo about the use of
international varieties in Italy. Here we try his opulent yet balanced
Toscana Chardonnay that makes us believers. From there we head a little
south into the Castellina in Chianti village and stop by Castello La Leccia
for our first red wine of the trip. This estate situated 450 meters
above sea level offers breathtaking views as we look down into the Val
d'Elsa that runs from Siena to San Gimignano. We taste our Toscana
Rosso, full of dark cherries and earth, while surveying the verdant
valley.
From there we head a few kilometers south east to Castelnuovo Berardenga to visit Borgo Scopeto.
Some of their property is located in the Classico region, and some of
the vineyards lie on the outskirts in the Colli Senesi. The large
heather Erica Scoparia that springs up in the surrounding woods
is likely where this estate originally acquired its name. Here they
have a podere, or country estate with farmhouse. The farmhouse has been
converted into apartments for guests with gardens and a swimming pool.
Here we sample their Chianti Classico which is smooth and medium to full
bodied. Hints of herbs and full throttle dark cherries make this wine
stand out, and while we would like to stay by the pool and keep on
sipping we move on to Siena, an ancient walled city very close by and to
the west.
Siena
is such a small city that you can walk across it in about a half hour.
So an early evening stroll is just the thing. We check out Il Campo, the Piazza where the Palio, a bareback horse race, is held in July and August, before checking in to the Grand Hotel Continental to be pampered. For dinner we head to Osteria il Campaccio for wild boar and polenta paired with Toscolo
Chianti. The Toscolo is so easy to drink with its bright red fruits and
friendly demeanor we are tempted to order a second bottle, but are
reminded by one of our more responsible traveling companions we need an
early start tomorrow, as we are headed to Montepulciano and Montalcino!
Montepulciano, the city not the grape, is a charming hill
town and is about one hour south east from Siena. The city is known for
food and wine; the former - cheese, pork and honey, the latter Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano, which achieved its
DOCG standing in 1980.
Here the best wines are made with Prugnolo Gentile, which is just another name for Sangiovese; but not all Sangioveses are created equal and the winemakers here feel they have an exceptional clone. After checking out Palazzo Comunale, designed by Michelozzo in the tradition of the Palazzo della Signoria of Florence, we head to Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta. Owned by the Corbelli
family the vineyards stand on the Gracciano hills, one of the best
"Crus" of Montepulciano. They show us their basic Rosso, and while very
lovely, it is the more masculine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano with its
velvet tannins and concentrated flavors of sour cherry that steals our
hearts. We decide to buy a few bottles for the trip home.
Off
to Montalcino, the home of Brunello, with the dust kicking up behind
our rented Fiat, we realize we have more than passed the halfway point
on our journey. This doesn't put a damper on our fire, as we head into
Montalcino. Montalcino is yet another picturesque hill town possibly
settled by the Etruscans. We check out the fortress which overlooks the
town and then head to the hamlet of Castello di Argiano, restored and
owned by Guiseppe Maria Sesti and his wife Elisa. They
turn out to be gracious hosts and pour their Brunellos and other wines
for us, which are stunning. The winner here, considering our budget, is
their Toscana IGT called Monteleccio which is an Italian version of the
Latin name “Montalcino,” meaning “hill of the holm oaks.” After a lovely
lunch and more wine we decide to stay in town for the evening and sneak
our Monteleccio into Il Leccio for dinner.
In the morning, we head to the Maremma region and a make a
quick stop in Scansano for a visit to one of our favorite value
producers of Sangiovese, or Morellino as the locals call the grape. Erik Banti
isn't in but one of the local cantinas has his Morellino di Scansano
with its herbs, sour cherries and biting acidity perfect for cutting
through our prosciutto, basil, and tomato panini.
Maremma
is a coastal strip that is loosely defined as the area south of Livorno
(Leghorn) extending southward through the province of Grosseto, and
much of the area was better suited to mosquitos than wine production.
North of Scansano is Bolgheri the famous home of Sassicaia and
Ornellaia. The DOC for Bolgheri was established in 1994 and Sassicaia
was granted its own sub-zone DOC of Bolgheri. These wines have hit
stratospheric price levels so we make plans to visit a newer producer
with less expensive wines, Campo Mare which is owned by
Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari. Here we get to try the wines, and once
again for us, and for the money, their basic Bolgheri made up of Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc is the clear choice. Deep and
rich, with black currants, cherries, and spice, this full-bodied wine is
a capital way to end this virtual trip in and around the lovely rolling
hills and seacoast of Tuscany. Did we say end? Well you couldn’t blame
us if on the way back to Florence we “leaned” towards Pisa for some last
minute tourist thrills would you? We thought not.
Ciao!
September Wines of the Month: Tuscany
Try all four wines of the month! We'll have a bottle of each open...
In Sudbury: Saturday 9/1 from 1-5 PM
In Concord: Friday 9/7 from 3-6 PM
Individually
these wines (write-ups below) are on sale for the entire month of
September and priced better than our everyday 20% case discount. But
you can still:
Buy the September Four-Pack Sampler for $40 – More than 25% off regular retail!
1) Casa Alle Vacche 2011 Vernaccia San Gimignano
Casa
Alle Vacche, or House of the Cows, has been in the Ciappi family for
three generations and they take pride and extreme care in the vineyards
and in the winery. This shows up in the bottle. Their wines are very
well made, true to their varietal character and to their places of
origins. They are also very easy on the pocketbook, and equally easy to
drink. Light bodied, crisp,
the wine has subtle fruit aromas and flavors of apples, lemons and
pears. True to Vernaccia character it finishes with a hint of bitter
almond. Bright and refreshing, this wine should prove to be quite
versatile with appetizers or main dishes. It is remarkably tasty with a
simple pasta primavera or shrimp scampi, but can be sipped under the
shade of olive trees by itself.
Regular Price $13.99
September Sale Price $10.99
2) Erik Banti 2010 Morellino di Scansano
Erik
Banti is one of the pioneers of Scansano wine; setting up shop in
Maremma and making his first finished wine in 1981. Maremma is the large
coastal area that runs from Livorno to the Province of Grosseto, and
much of this area was once swampy and mosquito infested. One famous
Tuscan winemaker, in the 1970's, tried and then gave up due to loss of
life amongst the laborers carving out vineyards. Banti is located in the
hills of Scansano where mosquitos are not a problem. Banti wines are no
strangers to either shop, Sudbury or West Concord, and his Carato was
quite a hit a few months back. The Morellino is a blend of 85%
Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, and 5% Ciliegiolo. This simple yet focused wine
with its aromas of sour cherries and herbs, and it bright acidity, make
this a great everyday food wine. Pizza, chicken, burgers and prosciutto,
basil, tomato paninis are surefire winners.
Regular Price $14.99
September Sale Price $11.59
3) Toscolo 2011 Chianti
Neil
Empson, wine importer extraordinaire, produces this wine with his
friend and oenologist Franco Bernabei. This is Neil's proprietary brand.
He has said his heart lies in Tuscany so when he chose a name for his
wines he picked Toscolo which means "Tuscan Boy." The grapes come from
various zones around Chianti, and Neil gets to cherry-pick the grapes he
wants to use for this wine. This allows him to maintain consistent
quality vintage to vintage. 100% Sangiovese, this wine spends six months
in oak to soften the texture and lend the wine some spicy notes without
diminishing the lovely cherry, pomegranate, and raspberry fruit that
the wine displays. This wine works well with many first and second
courses, red and white meats, and cheeses. Roasted thick-cut pork chops
would work very well.
Regular Price $10.99
September Sale Price $8.59
4) Castello La Leccia 2009 Toscano Rosso IGT
Castello
La Leccia is an ancient hamlet that lies in the Chianti Classico region
in the village of Castellina in Chianti, a bit north of Siena. Here
they make the Rosso that we are featuring, as well as a Chianti
Classico, a Riserva, and olive oil. Paolo Salvi is the winemaker here
and since 2000 they have been making improvements to the vineyards as
well as the cellars. The blend here is 70% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot, and
5% Petit Verdot. This ruby colored wine is aromatic with dark cherries,
violets, and marzipan. The wine still has some primary grape-y notes
along with some mineral dust. Easy drinking, the tannins are light and
made of velvet; the body is of medium weight and the finish shows some
the bitter almond that is typical. Great "everything pizza" wine!
Regular Price $10.99
September Sale Price $8.59
Buy the four wines above...the September Four-Pack Sampler for $40 – More than 25% off regular retail!
And more Featured Wines from our Tuscan Wine Tour
Come taste these wines...
Featured Tuscan tasting part 1 Saturday September 15th 2-5
Featured Tuscan tasting part 2 Saturday September 22nd 2-5
Panizzi 2011 Vernaccia San Gimignano
Panizzi
is relatively a newcomer in Tuscany. Just a little over twenty years
old, they have been producing highly rated wines that are complex and
full of vitality. The vineyards are about a kilometer and a half away
from San Gimignano with all its towers. 100% Vernaccia, the grapes are
gently pressed and then fermented in stainless steel. This
brilliantly clear wine is aromatic with fruit aromas of pineapple,
green apple, and pear. The texture is rich and shows some oily viscosity
for a mouth-filling sensation and a long finish. Pasta with shrimp and
scallops, or even lobster would be an excellent choice. Vegetables and
cheese are also delicious accompaniments.
Regular Price $17.99
September Sale Price $13.99
Isole e Olena 2010 Chardonnay Toscana IGT
Paolo
de Marchi, whose family is originally from Piedmont and who purchased
this estate in the sixties, continues to produce some of the best
Chianti Classicos around. Paolo took over the reins in 1976 and his
wines continue to get better. Paolo, while making very nice Chiantis and
his flagship wine, Cepparello, also makes a Cabernet, a Syrah, and a
Chardonnay. The Chardonnay, with each new vintage, impresses me more and
more. Barrel fermented, the 2010 Chardonnay is deep in color for the
variety and has an impressive nose filled with baked apples, vanilla,
lemon, nutmeg, cardamom, apple blossoms, honey, and lemon. A full
bodied wine, you might almost mistake this for Russian River Chardonnay,
but the fruit is a bit more old-world in style. This wine would go
astoundingly well with a seafood or mushroom vegetable risotto, but I
had it with chicken Parm the other night, and that also worked quite
satisfactorily.
Regular Price $43.99
September Sale Price $33.99
Borgo Scopeto 2009 Chianti Classico
The
estate dates back to the year 1000 and was a fortified settlement
belonging to the episcopacy of Siena. The name Scopeto most likely comes
from the wild heather (Erica scoparia) that grows in the surrounding
forests. The first vintage of Chianti Classico from this estate was in
1998, so while the estate is venerable, the wines are just starting to
find their way. The wine is a blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot, and 5%
Colorino and is vinified in a traditional manner. Aging is done in 30
hectoliter Slavonian oak casks and this gives the wine unique baking
spice and herbal aroma. The wine is aromatic with herbs, sour cherries,
raspberries, black cherries, and an iron/meatiness typical of Sangiovese
character. Structured, the wine will age for a few years quite nicely
and the tannins are persistent and soft. Sour cherries on the palate
make this a particularly good pasta wine, but will also pair nicely with
wild boar.
Regular Price $16.99
September Sale Price $12.99
Gracciano 2009 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Montepulciano can be confusing for the average wine drinker.
Is it a grape? Is it place? The answer is: both. In the case of Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano, however, it is a place. (In Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo it is the grape.) Located seventy-five miles south of
Florence, this Kodak-moment village makes some seriously good juice. The
soil here is sandier than in Chianti or Brunelo di Montalcino and the
Sangiovese they grow is called Prugnolo Gentile. That and the warmer
climate make these wines, in general, fuller bodied, but perhaps not as
delicately aromatic. The wine is made up of 90% Prugnolo Gentile and 10%
Merlot with the age of the vines being well over twenty five years.
This garnet colored wine has lots of dark cherry and sour cherry aromas
accompanied by spice, licorice and almond. The palate is very
concentrated with velvet tannins that finish long and dusty. Meaty and
complex this wine would be great with a steak that was peppered and
Tuscan herbed. Aged pecorino should also be considered.
Regular Price $21.99
September Sale Price $16.99
Sesti 2009 Toscano Rosso IGT "Monteleccio"
Giuseppi Maria Sesti is a modern renaissance man. He has written five books on the history of astronomy, organized
the festival of Baroque opera at Batignano in Tuscany, and restored the
property where he now makes wine. He and his wife Elisa, using cycles
of the moon, grow grapes and olives and produce Brunellos and Toscano
Rossos of profound complexities. This “Monteleccio” which essentially is
another name for Montalcino, is comprised of Brunello (Sangiovese)
grapes that are selected for their quality by Giuseppi. The wine is very
aromatic, perhaps the most potent of our Tuscan line-up, with sour
cherry, earthy notes of fallen leaves and forest, iron, flowers and
spice. The palate is full and loaded with sweet ripe fruit and balancing
acidity and tannins. If you are looking for an interesting and
challenging wine, then this is for you. Pair with rich stews of pork and
root vegetables, venison steaks, and truffled risotto. We love this
wine! Imported by Kermit Lynch.
Regular Price $27.99
September Sale Price $21.99
Campo al Mare 2010 Bolgheri
Bolgheri,
for those enamored of Super Tuscans, is the home of Super Expensive
wines like Sassicaia and Ornellaia that were modeled after Bordeaux
wines of France. Created by members of the Antinori family using
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc., these wines first appeared in1970
(Sassicaia) and 1981 (Ornellaia). By comparison Campo al Mare, owned by
the Folonari family, produced their first Bolgheri Rosso in 2003. A
shorter history perhaps, but still an impressive addition to these
legendary Super Tuscans. The wine is your typical Bordeaux blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Very
aromatic, the wine is loaded with black currants, cherries, red
currants, cocoa, mocha, baking spices, roasted herbs, and mint.
Texturally, it has structural tannins that are almost silky yet taut.
This is very full-bodied and concentrated. A young wine that drinks well
enough now, but will certainly age well for 5-7 years or more. Why
spend $150 or more on one of the better known Bolgheri wines, when you
can get the Campo al Mare at a fifth of that price? Try this with hearty
Tuscan stews or marinated flank steaks. You’ll be glad you did.
Regular Price $37.99
September Sale Price $29.99